I arrived in Paris, France on February 14th to spend the next three weeks with my daughter Megan who has been living there since August 2013. My husband would be joining us on February 20th. Ahhhhh Paris! Ahhhhh La France! The memories come flooding back: traveling in Europe at the age of 18, going to school in Besançon for a year at the age of 22/23 (30 years ago actually), coming to Paris dozens of weekends when I worked as a flight attendant (yes it's true),traveling when Megan was 2 and a half and again with all our 3 kids 10 years ago! I will always loving coming here - maybe I've spent past lives here (I'm sure I have) and it's in my blood!
I love the architecture, the geography but most of all I love the food!! Ahhhhh la nouriture! It's truly an art here and you I have still seen evidence of the pride people take in the creation of amazing food. The presentation is stellar and although the north american influence of fast food places has made it's mark, they do not - thankfully - over shadow all the wonderful patiseries, boulangeries, charcuteries and restaurants - both "fin and bon marché".
So as a foody but also confessed granola head and someone who usually eats little dairy and little to no gluten - how to survive in France for three whole weeks????? Well, here's a word to the wise traveler who can be a little over food obsessed as I have been - and I mean obsessing over "what will I eat, that I can have?" Ready?? When in Rome..........with some mindfulness attached.
Yes, that's my rule of thumb now when it comes to traveling. Eat, enjoy, and find a balance. Food in an integral part of every culture and social matrix. Food is meant to be experienced and enjoyed as part of the whole experience of traveling to another part of the country or world! Now when it comes to Europe, the food is not that different from North America in it's foundation. Yet as a foody and a health conscious one at that, I keep my eyes open for key things and what I have observed on this trip are the following:
The local markets, usually happening one day per week, in just about every small town like Lyons la Forêt (a very small village in Normandy that we visited) still exist in full force and these dedicated vendors are committed to providing people fresh, local food to the local citoyens and travellers alike. The woman who sold us our cheese in Lyons la Forêt, lit up when we asked for a recommendation and went on to describe the nature and texture of the local cheese we were buying. Small local farmers markets are increasing every year in North America though. The slow food approach is making it's mark, which is a breath of fresh air. However, the small market scene in North America is different than what you still find in Europe, and other continents, and have been able to find for centuries.
What is evident about the food culture here is the emphasis on fresh and available and minimally processed. To find cheeses made "du lait cru" (raw milk) is more common than not, and yet our government makes it almost impossible to enjoy cheeses or other dairy products in this way. Typically lactose intolerant, I find my body does not reject the raw cheese as it would other cheeses at home, therefore my reasoning for the "when in Rome" approach. Flour products here are not made to last more than one day, two at most, therefore no preservatives. Artisanal bakeries in North America use a slow fermentation processes, which is the traditional way to make breads and pastries, to make them more digestible. The difference is finding these items very well priced in France, where one would pay more of a premium in North America (however worth every penny!) I spoke with a woman in a beautiful family owned health food store in Dijon about the gluten issue and if they were finding the same issues in France. She said that there was quite an awareness around it and as a result, many people have been reducing or cutting out their consumption of bread or choosing gluten free options. So the trends are ripling world wide.
While packaged, non-nutritious foods can be found in the super-marché but not in the quantities that would be found on grocery store shelves at home. Of course I scoured the shelves for things that are common for me to buy at home: almond milk, coconut water, super foods, gluten free items and all things organic. The Agriculture Biologique label in France can be easily found on many products - most importantly for me was wine! - and in most shops or stores.
Traditions still live strong in France and along with myriad of 12 century to present day structures, I will never tire of the experiences of the people, food and places of this land.